I’m not sure whether it was twisting my ankle in a pothole, or spearing my shins on some spiky shrubbery that spurred us into spontaneous car hire in Mykonos. Either way, it was the right choice. I’m all for pounding the pavements wherever possible when travelling, but it’s got to be said, roads in the diminutive Greek island aren’t overly kind to the flip-flop shod walker.
Take, for example, our first eager attempt to reach Mykonos Town/Chora, the island’s port and capital. Visible across the bay from our slightly out of the way base, but on foot, accessible only via a 45 minute long route peppered with all manner of hazards. Narrow roads with no proper footpaths, uneven ground, jagged plant-life and cars flying by just a smidge too close for comfort. We quickly understood why the hotel lady was less than enthusiastic when we shared our plans to try and get there powered by legs alone.
By day two, we had the kit for a full-scale exploration of the Cycladian island. Wheels in the form of a smartcar, a few bottles of water, and the most rudimentary of tourist maps with the myriad of beaches marked with a cheery red and white parasol.
Mykonos is famed as a chic and uber-glam party island which could understandably lead it to being unfairly discounted as an ideal place to escape the day to day grind and tune out. Clubbing till sunrise, wearing heels on the beach and rubbing shoulders with celebs is there for the taking if that’s your bag. But time your visit early or late in the season, and you can experience all of the beauty of the landscape, while swerving the crowds.
And where better to wind down than laid flat out on a lounger, drink in one hand and book in the other? Mykonos is to sea and sand what Las Vegas is to slot machines, and it’s where it claims the upper hand from its equally stunning but not-so-hot-in-the -beach-stakes neighbour, Santorini.
Guided by our free map and spontaneity, we led our smartcar down dirt tracks to shorelines across the majority of Mykonos in the space of a week, and discovered this…
Generally speaking, Mykonos’s beaches fall into categories, each with their own distinct personalities and unsurprisingly, each attracting a very different crowd. To cover them all would make this a lengthy and tiresome read, but here’s the general gist.
The wild ones
For wild, untamed and generally avoiding interaction with others, head north. The top of the island is home to dramatic scenery, cliff and shingle beach, the main source of noise coming from the unpredictable waves. You might find the odd taverna or a tiny church, but generally plan to bring your own towels, refreshments and entertainment because resources here are scarce. Try Fokos and Agios Sostis, and upgrade your flip-flops to some sturdier shoes, because walking on stones, shells and driftwood hurts like hell.
The party ones
The southern perimeter of the island is where you’ll find sand and calm waters in spades. Here, there’s Paradise Beach, and as if it couldn’t get any more insane, SUPER Paradise beach. Both ferry coach loads of the young and the tanned to dance till dawn, and enjoy the thumping tunes from the many bars. If you’re under 25 or want to pretend you are, then pitch up here.
Further along the coast, Hollywood royalty Lindsay Lohan has claimed her stretch of golden sand and set up a beach club and nightspot emblazoned with her own surname. Despite this, Kala Livadi beach is quite sedate by day, with inviting azure waters and pristine sands regularly raked by Lohan staff.
The glam one
Psarrou is allegedly the best beach on the island and given the bigger-than-your-house yachts anchored in the twinkling waters, the bold claim appears to be true. Compact but ultra glamorous, descend via the cliff path and stop every five paces for jaw-dropper views of the white sand, clear blue sea and just about every other beach-based cliche going. Beware when choosing your sun-soaking spot, because Psarrou is home to Nammo’s beach club/restaurant – hangout for the likes of the Kardashians and their mates and those for whom a 90 EURO lounger is pocket change. Unless you’re feeling particularly flush, pick the more reasonably priced sun beds being sold by the vendor next door. After all, the view is the same!
The best and coolest ones (IMHO)
A mere sliver of beach, but with the most relaxed of atmospheres and Pili bar’s day-long drinks served to your comfortably padded lounger, that’s Agios Giannis. Once you’re done with the sun, take a table at the open-sided Hippie Fish, one of the oldest yet most modern and stylish eateries on the island. Greek and international fusion dishes are on offer, with both the food and view equal in the magnificent stakes.
When a restaurant has it’s very own rock pool teeming with sea urchins and other creatures awaiting your order, you can be confident that in the words of Masterchef’s Gregg, cooking doesn’t get much fresher than this. Spillia sits on it’s own natural rock platform, overhanging the water at exclusive but accessible Agia Anna beach. Food is Mykonian/Mediterranean, not cheap but sensational. It’s open all day, and although upmarket, somehow feels relaxed enough for dining straight off the beach. Ideal place for a signature lunch or dinner, once you’ve made the most of the sea and sand.
the trip magnet 